The Federal Drug Administration (FDA) has approved several prescription medications that are clinically proven to slow or reverse some of the effects of photoaging. These anti-aging, anti-wrinkle creams, serums, lotions, and gels are called topical retinoids.
Retinoids are synthetic and naturally occurring forms of retinol (vitamin A) that are about 10 times more potent than retinol. Topical retinoids and retinol can have similar anti-aging effects by boosting skin cell turnover, but retinoids tend to work faster because they're prescription-strength.
Over-the-counter (OTC) treatments
Countless companies promote the anti-aging properties of their cosmetic products. But because face lotions, eye creams, moisturizers, and serums aren't technically drugs, these claims aren't regulated by the FDA. Informally known as cosmeceuticals, many of these drugstore products contain active ingredients that clinical research has shown to reduce fine lines and wrinkles, boost skin elasticity, and even out skin tone.
Here are some of the more vetted OTC ingredients you can look for on cosmeceutical labels:
• Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic acid, lactic acid, and citric acid
• Bakuchiol, a plant-based retinol alternative (phytoretinol)
• Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid
• Nicotinamide, also known as niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3
• Polyphenols and flavonoids (plant compounds) like coffee berry/caffeine, grape seed, green tea, Ginkgo biloba, and ginseng
• Retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl esters like retinyl palmitate
• Soybean derivatives, which are rich in flavonoids and amino acids
• Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid)
• Vitamin E (alpha-tocopherol)
In general, vitamins, polyphenols, and flavonoids are considered antioxidants that work by neutralizing the free radicals that cause oxidative stress in our bodies. Retinols and peptides are considered cell regulators that work by influencing collagen production.
Other therapies and procedures*
The following cosmetic therapies and procedures can also reduce the signs of photoaging in skin, although they tend to be more expensive and invasive:
• Botulinum toxin injection (Botox Cosmetic, Dysport, Daxxify)
• Face lift (rhytidectomy)
• Photodynamic therapy (PDT)
• Skin or dermal fillers (soft tissue injections)
*These therapies aren't offered through telehealth visits, and they may not be covered by health insurance.
